International travel is currently challenging and the hoops one must jump through are formidable but fortunately not insurmountable, as the rewards of an African safari, even during the covid pandemic, are so worth the extra effort. My goal was to visit three areas in Kenya that were different in scope wildlife, birdlife, landscape but easy to access from one to the next. Karen and Shem at C4 created an itinerary that not only accomplished, but surpassed, these goals.
Northern Kenya’s arid landscape offered excellent viewing opportunities, several endemic mammalian species and a plethora of birds, many of them also endemic. All this was complemented by a spectacular setting amidst beautiful mountains. The two camps visited, Sarara and Elephant Bedroom, differed in style and flavor and had radically different landscapes despite being only an hour’s drive apart.
A short flight then took me to southern Kenya to a visit to the Masai Mara with the hope of witnessing a crossing as part of the Great Migration, when thousands of wildebeest and zebra risk their lives to cross the Mara River in search of greener pastures. After several days of viewing the classic wildlife of Africa with a few extra treats such as sightings of rare Black Rhinoceros, a Serval with kittens, many raptors as well as very young lion cubs and elephants, we noted wildebeest accumulating in the grasslands near the river. We dedicated the next day to patrolling the river seeking sites where the wildebeest were congregating at the river’s edge to test the water for a possible crossing. After hours of trepidation, the first wildebeest entered the river which set off a deluge of followers. The river became chocked with wildebeest, as those reaching the other side could not climb the river bank quickly enough to make room for the thousands of wildebeest that followed. There was panic in the air, several wildebeest drowned in the frenzy and the vultures were accumulating, awaiting their own feast. It was an experience like no other and a privilege to witness this enduring cycle of life.
My experience in Kenya was rich and wonderful and I thank C4 for providing this wonderful opportunity. Special thanks to Karen and Shem for their advice in trip planning and to Isak Pretorius for his photographic advice and assistance. Don’t let a pandemic get in your way!
Ellen Mack
